Overall: We had a lovely time at Casa Antonella, one of the properties on a gated estate, located high above the village of Varenna. Living in the large and comfortable house and enjoying the many views it afforded made for a memorable vacation. Enjoyed Most: THE VIEWS OF LAKE COMO and the surrounding mountains. Some of the higher peaks were snow-capped in late September and early October. The dining room and terraces were the perfect perches for watching the cloud formations, sunsets, and changing weather patterns. The small swimming pool was still filled with ice cold water for a bracing dip during a warm day and the pool area had several chaise lounges for taking in the sun. The hot water heater in the entry way produced lots of hot water for doing the dishes and showering. Enjoyed Least: This being Italy, the electrical system is underpowered by US standards and appliances such as the oven and electric coffee maker and kettle often blew a fuse if used at the same time. But there is a fuse box in the entry way to access to flip switches and power up. We did not use the electric dishwasher or washing machine (couldn't figure out the dials) but did some hand laundry and used the drying rack on the top floor terrace for drying the old fashioned way. Also, some of the shower stalls leaked but not so bad that it caused floods. The bathtub in the largest bathroom is simply too narrow for any normal sized person so we didn't bother using it. Surrounding Area: The location of the villa high above Varenna next to the tiny hilltop village of Vezio was unique. Vezio has the look of a medieval village with stone streets, tiny stone houses, and the ruins of a medieval castle complete with resident raptors. Access to the town via automobile is along a series of narrow switchback roads. By foot, one must hike up a precipitous pathway to get from Varenna on the lakefront to the villa. Nearby Events or Locales: The villa is located high above the village of Varenna in Vezio. One must drive up a steep switchback road to reach a single lane road to reach the villa which is located directly behind and above a large white gate. One opens and closes the gate with a key. It is possible to hike up to the villa from Varenna but one must be physically fit to make it. Therefore, a car is a necessity for reaching the property from Varenna. No cars are permitted in Vezio - it's accessible by pedestrians only. But that's part of the charm of the place. Tips or Restaurants: Rent a car and be prepared to nimbly walk around natural stone pathways and staircases which dot the villa. Buy food and wine in EuroSpin supermarket south of Varenna in Lierna or Mandelo del Lario or buy small supplies of things in the shops in Varenna. If driving a car, note that parking is very limited. White parking lines are free, blue require paying for a parking ticket, and yellow lines are for residents. Our party cooked and ate at home which allowed us to savor the excellent food and wine of the area but there are many formal and informal spots to eat in town. If renting in the autumn bring several warm sweaters because there is no heat in the house despite having two fireplaces. Directions: If driving from Malpensa airport, drive directly to Como then head east to Lecco and up the east side of the lake. This allows you to avoid taking the ferry from Menaggio to Varenna. Our rental car had GPS in Russian so we couldn't use it and had to rely on our trusty Michelin map and own sense of direction. On returning to Malpensa, follow the same route. I made the mistake of taking the autostrada to Milan and ended up in the central city and no where near the airport. Check In Out: It was seamless since I called the property owner the day before we left and told her when we expected to arrive. Upon arrival at the villa gate, we rang the doorbell and were met by Stella, one of the keyholders. She signed us in and took our security deposit and gave us a quick tour of the house. Although she didn't speak English, we managed to get the gist of her information.
14 years ago
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